The pandemic wrecked several notable experiences on the Las Vegas Strip, but the arrival of Mexican food in Wynn wasn’t one of them. The first iteration, Elio, was discontinued a year ago after the operators split up with each other and Wynn, but the resort moved on by redesigning the space, formerly Andreas at Encore, and sticking to talented chef Sarah Thompson, which came from the celebrated Cosme in New York’s Flatiron District.
The result of that strong second effort is Casa Playa, one of the most sophisticated Mexican restaurants the Strip has ever seen. The once minimalist dining room has been livened up by a ceiling installation made of cascading marigolds, and the energetic lounge area is a cozy place for a meal or just to try the imaginative cocktails by mixologist Mariena Mercer Boarini.
The cuisine is extremely close to the coast and the menu is a mixture of exciting, surprising flavors and homely, traditional offerings. Wynn Resorts has always strived to lead culinary trends on the Strip, so it makes sense to expect a lot from Casa Playa. Thompson and her team do not disappoint.
Start the experience with a choice from the crudo menu, ranging from oysters with prickly pear mignonette to yellowfin tuna tartare ($ 24) with avocado and pasilla chillies. The Mexican Blue Shrimp Ceviche ($ 24) offers unparalleled freshness with soothing flavors of coconut, tomatillo, and cucumber.
Seafood platters to share are also an option, but skip other entrees like burrata with morita salsa ($ 17), addicting tetelas ($ 15) – blue corn masa bags filled with mushrooms and cheese – or a duck confit tamale with Mole and ricotta not off. The flavors are rich and warm and connect you with your basic understanding of this cuisine, but they are often combined with unexpected ingredients to expand your idea of what Mexican food can be like.
You can also get fried fish ($ 17) or carne asada tacos ($ 18) in the starters section, but keep exploring the new and you’ll be rewarded. Cauliflower al Pastor ($ 29) with pineapple butter and cashew salsa is next level vegan food in Vegas, even at Wynn, which has been around for a long time. Yucatan Chicken Pibil ($ 42) is a huge serving of soulful food, perfectly kissed by adobo of orange and annatto. And the branzino a la talla ($ 36-70) – flaky fish varnished with guajillo adobo and served with simple herbs and salsa cruda – is my new favorite dish of the year.
You should share the playful churros ($ 24) with your table mates to end the meal, but don’t skip the tres-leches cake with toasted coconut and white chocolate ($ 14). It is sublime.
BEACH HOUSE Addition, 702-770-5340. Wednesday-Sunday, 6 p.m.-midnight.
